Kyoto · Kurama Mountains · Natural Onsen · English Guide

Hot Springs in Kyoto — Where to Find Onsen, and the Tattoo Rules

Kyoto surprises people: for all its tradition, it isn't a hot-spring town — the real onsen sit in the mountains around the city. This featured trip heads north to Kurama, hiking through cedar forest to a natural hot-spring bath with mountain views, guided in English. Below is the full picture — where to find onsen near Kyoto, the all-important tattoo rules, and how private and day-use baths work.

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The Experience

Why Book the Kurama Hot Springs Hike

The closest thing to a real onsen escape from central Kyoto — a guided forest hike in the northern mountains that ends in a natural hot-spring bath, all in a half-day.

Highlights

  • Take a pleasant train ride from Kyoto through the mountains to a rustic village
  • Hike through an ancient forest and visit the Kurama Temple on the mountaintop
  • Enjoy a journey that is both energizing and spiritually refreshing
  • Visit Kibune shrine and make a prayer for good relationships
  • Take the opportunity to have a rejuvenating hot spring bath after the tour!

What's Included

  • Guide fee
  • Temple admission
  • Transportation

How the Kurama Hot Springs Trip Works

Four steps from central Kyoto to a mountain soak and back.

  1. Ride the Eizan Railway to Kurama

    Meet your guide and take the scenic Eizan Electric Railway from Demachiyanagi up into the forested mountains north of the city, to the line's end at Kurama — a world away from downtown Kyoto in about half an hour.

  2. Hike Through Kurama & Kibune

    Walk the cedar-forest trail past Kurama-dera temple and over the ridge toward Kibune, with your English-speaking guide explaining the mountain's history and mythology along the way. Temple admission is included.

  3. Soak in the Natural Hot Spring

    Finish at Kurama's natural hot spring and its open-air bath (rotenburo), looking out over the cedar slopes — the reward for the hike, and the kind of mountain onsen you can't find in the city centre.

  4. Relaxed Return to the City

    Dry off and ride back down to central Kyoto. The whole trip is a half-day, so it slots neatly into an itinerary — a morning of soaking before an afternoon of temples, or the other way round.

Book Your Experience

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Two Ways to Soak Near Kyoto — Kurama vs. Arashiyama

The two genuine onsen experiences you can book in advance. Here's how they differ.

FeatureNATURAL ONSEN Kurama Hike & Hot SpringsArashiyama Train, Boat & Onsen
Starting PriceFrom $78/per personFrom $150
DurationHalf-dayFull day
Rating4.9/5 (59 reviews)5/5 (107 reviews)
WhereKurama — the mountains north of KyotoArashiyama — western Kyoto
What You DoHike through Kurama's cedar forest, then soak in a natural mountain hot springSagano Romantic Train, a Hozugawa boat cruise, the bamboo grove, and an onsen soak
PaceActive — a guided hike to the bathRelaxed & scenic
Best ForHikers who want a natural onsen as the rewardA full scenic day that finishes in the hot spring
English-Friendly?YesYes
Check AvailabilityView Scenic Day

More Onsen-Inclusive Kyoto Experiences

Prefer your soak at the end of a scenic day? The Arashiyama tour pairs the Sagano Romantic Train and a Hozugawa boat cruise with an onsen — the relaxed counterpart to the Kurama hike.

The Real Onsen Picture

Hot Springs in Kyoto: Where to Soak, and the Rules No One Tells You

Kyoto isn't the hot-spring town visitors expect. Here's where the real onsen are, how the tattoo rules work, and how to soak without staying overnight.

Kyoto onsen — a steaming open-air hot-spring bath (rotenburo) among autumn mountains, with a stone lantern and a wooden ryokan, the kind of natural mountain hot spring found around Kurama and Ohara near Kyoto
A mountain rotenburo near Kyoto — the open-air, natural hot-spring soak that Kurama and the city's edge villages are made for.

Here’s the thing most guides skip: Kyoto isn’t a hot-spring town. Unlike Hakone or Beppu, it sits on no volcano, so there’s no cluster of steaming baths downtown. What Kyoto has instead are natural hot springs in the mountains around the city — and once you know where to look, soaking becomes one of the best ways to escape the temple crowds for an afternoon.

Where the onsen actually are

Kyoto’s springs are deep, non-volcanic geothermal water, and they’re on the edges:

  • Kurama — the closest real onsen, up in the cedar-forested mountains to the north. This is where the featured hike-and-hot-springs trip goes.
  • Ōhara — a quiet rural village northeast of the city with onsen ryokan, good for a slower day.
  • Arashiyama — the western district has onsen ryokan and inns, easily tacked onto a day of bamboo grove and river scenery.
  • Kinosaki Onsen — not in Kyoto at all, but the classic day-trip: a dedicated hot-spring town in Hyōgo, about 2 to 2½ hours away by limited-express train, where guests stroll between seven public bathhouses in yukata. The full onsen-town experience if a single bath isn’t enough.

Kurama: the closest real soak

Kurama is the easy answer for anyone based in central Kyoto. You ride the scenic Eizan Electric Railway from Demachiyanagi to the end of the line, and the onsen sits in the mountains with an open-air bath (rotenburo) looking over the cedar slopes (there’s even a free shuttle from the station). The guided trip above turns it into a half-day: a forest hike past Kurama-dera temple and toward Kibune, then the soak as the reward.

The tattoo question — read this before you go

This trips up more visitors than anything else: many Japanese onsen still refuse entry to guests with visible tattoos, a rule rooted in tattoos’ historic association with organized crime. The good news is that attitudes are shifting — roughly half of facilities now accommodate tattoos — and there are three reliable workarounds:

  1. Choose a tattoo-friendly facility (Kinosaki Onsen’s bathhouses, for example, are entirely tattoo-friendly).
  2. Rent a private/family bath — a kashikiri-buro you reserve for your own group, which also suits couples, families, and anyone shy about communal bathing.
  3. Cover a small tattoo with a waterproof patch, where the facility allows it.

If you have tattoos, booking a private bath is the surest way to soak without any awkwardness.

Day-use, and the etiquette that matters

You don’t need to stay overnight: many onsen and ryokan offer day-use (higaeri) admission, so you can head out from the city, soak for a few hours, and come back. Once you’re there, the etiquette is simple but non-negotiable — wash and rinse thoroughly before getting in (the communal bath is for soaking, not cleaning), bathe naked (no swimsuits), keep your small towel out of the water, and tie up long hair. Note the difference, too: an onsen is fed by natural geothermal hot-spring water, while a sentō is a public bathhouse using ordinary heated water — both relaxing, but only one is the real hot-spring experience.

Ready for the mountain version? Check availability on the Kurama hot-springs hike, or see the Arashiyama onsen day above for the scenic alternative.

Guest Reviews

What Visitors Say

"Fabulous day in the mountains with great guide who explained everything in friendly manner. Great trip on the mountain train up the gorge. The walk was hard work, you need some experience, as the heat makes things harder, but beautiful setting, and very refreshed in the onsen afterwards. Beautiful valley with restaurants over the river to rest afterwards, thank you"

Samantha United Kingdom

"Phillip was a fantastic guide! Knowledgeable, down to earth, and fun. He knew all the cool people most people don’t know about. Plus, the views and history are excellent. I’d highly recommend taking this tour!"

Guest photo from review Guest photo from review
Alexander United States

"Philippe did an amazing job with us. by luck we ended up being the only folks on the tour, and he was able to customize it a bit for us. we got to spend lots of time at Kurama, and even got to see the crypt and maze underneath the temple. He shared lots of the area's history and legends with us, and we got along very well with him. The onsen at the end is glorious, do *not* miss it -it is de rigueur after hiking in the mountains. What a wonderful experience all around!"

Patrick United States

"Kevin was very knowledgable and gave us a lot of historical and cultural context."

Guest photo from review Guest photo from review
Melanie Austria

"This tour was incredible! Nature was on our side with some light snow on a sunny day. We even saw two deer on our way up. Our guide Philippe was great and so knowledgeable. We learned so much, and Philippe took us to some lesser known spots on the mountain, which made for an unforgettable tour. Would highly recommend!"

Jasmine Fuller United States

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FAQ — Hot Springs (Onsen) in Kyoto

Where to actually find onsen near Kyoto, the tattoo rules, private and day-use options, and bathing etiquette.